Lucky 13!

To escape the stubborn Melbourne winter this year we decided to head up to Far North Queensland to the town of Port Douglas for some warmth. It’s a small town known for being a good launching point for exploring the Great Barrier Reef. We did a day trip to the reef when we visited Australia in 2011, so this time we decided to focus on inland activities. For the second year in a row we timed our holiday so it would coincide with our anniversary, because, why not?

For out geographically challenged friends.
For our geographically challenged friends.

We flew into Cairns, rented a car and drove the one hour up to Port Douglas. The road there is pretty breathtaking in parts as it winds along the Coral Sea.  You’ll have to take my word for it, since we didn’t take any photos.

The weather was not awesome for our first full day there, so we figured if it was going to be rainy, why not explore the rainforest that was nearby! There were crazy trees everywhere and we took a nice hike through the forest and crossed a scary suspension bridge.

Crazy tree
Crazy tree
Rain forest river
Rain forest river
Bouncy scary bridge
Bouncy scary bridge

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Port Douglas is known for its beach – “Four Mile Beach” – which is funny to me since they don’t use miles here. It’s a very long, flat beach that seems to go on forever. One day we walked about 4 miles down the beach, but there seemed to be more beach after that. So the name doubly doesn’t make sense!

4 Mile Beach
4 Mile Beach

One of Sara’s co-workers declared that the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway was “ace”, so we decided to give it a go.

In the gondola
In the gondola

It was an amazing experience, we took a gondola about 7.5 kilometers with two stops go get off and view the rainforest and Barron Falls.

Barron Falls
Barron Falls

The gondola ends in a town called Kuranda, where we got lunch and hiked around a little. Then we took an old-timey train back down the mountain while we heard stories about how hard the train was to build. The train had one stop as well from the opposite side of the waterfall . Apparently during the wet season, the waterfall is quite the spectacle. It was pretty cool to see even during the dry season.

Back in Port Douglas, we noticed the beach had little balls of sand everywhere and seemed to be moving as you walked towards it.

Balls of sand
Balls of sand

We learned that the beach is home to the Sand Bubbler Crab, they seem to have the terrible job of hiding in the sand until the tide goes down and then harvesting the sand for any food in it and discarding the sand in little balls near their hole. I found them fascinating, they made the beach look like art.

Crab art
Crab art

One bar in town hosts a nightly “Cane Toad Race” and that came recommended by multiple people.  We went one night and were disappointed that the toads didn’t actually race as much as sit around and do nothing.

"Racing" toads
“Racing” toads

For the most part we just relaxed, read some books and just enjoyed the break from the Melbourne winter. I realized it had been 5 months since our prior vacation, which is way too long for me to stay sane!

Happy 13th Anniversary to us!
Happy 13th Anniversary to us!

Operation Houseguests

After we booked our tickets for Australia Katy spent weeks looking up things to do, while I spent weeks familiarizing myself with everything likely to bite me. After 18 days on the road, it’s worth noting that the best parts of our trip were everyday living (and drinking) with our hosts and the improvised bits that turned into mini-adventures. And nothing, to my knowledge, bit me, though I’m still checking for stowaway spiders.

Instead of a chronological recap, lets go by broad subject area.

1) The Handels!

My god, have they gone native. Full-on Crocodile Dundee accents. Pet koalas. Sara carries a 14 inch knife on her hip. They couldn’t even bother to be terrified when this plant tried to eat me.

Botanical Gardens 2

In between working for the man and playing the didgeridoo, they managed to take us out for beers, dumplings, and other beer. It was wonderful. Personally, I think they should start renting out their guest room on Airbnb for $300 a night, but I’m glad they waited until after our visit.

2) Sport. It’s good.

We managed to catch both Aussie rules footy and rugby matches. They were great. We figured out footy within 20 minutes, and loved it. I still don’t understand half of rugby, but still enjoyed every minute. The footy players seemed like guys who were both a) fantastic and tough athletes, but b)  also very likely to have a keg tapped in the locker room at halftime.

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2) Adventuring!

Well, at least by our standards. We aren’t the camping/walkabout types. I, in particular, have the view that two days without wifi counts as roughing it. But we did manage a midweek trip to Brisbane, a one day’s improvised trip to the Gold Coast, and even conned the Handels into a a day trip to The Twelve Apostles down along the southeast coastline. The last was only possible due to Jon’s willingness to drive on the left side of the road. I doubt I need to explain to any who know me that we wouldn’t have survived the first right turn if I was driving.

Brisbane Chinatown        Katy Gold CoastTwelve Apostles beach FullSizeRender(3)

3) Beer, whiskey. dumplings, and donuts. And all the Gozleme.

Everywhere we went we were treated to wonderful craft beers, but the best part might have been the “hotels” we were drinking them in. Big, open, and stylish, with just the right about of kitsch-without-being-twee, these Melbourne takes on pub and bar culture are just the best. It’s probably for the best that beers are so ungodly expensive, or you might never leave. Personally, the Cherry Tree Hotel is officially our homebase bar for all future Melbourne adventures, if only because they knew then answers to all our questions (see photo below).

Cherry Tree Hotel IMG_6377

And that doesn’t even get into the time we ordered all the Japanese whiskey one day. And then ordered (even more literally) all the Australian whiskey the next day.

But enough about drinking. Let’s talk about the most important thing that needs to be imported back to the United States, second only to the Handels.  Gozleme (umlaut not included). Turkish flatbread stuffed with spinach and meat and warmth and joy. My god. I’m looking at you CostCo. Get on it.

4) Street Art.

I posted a bunch on Instagram. It’s really cool.

Katy Melbourne Art     Mike Art 2

Katy looks playful, while I look like a pretentious ass, and neither of us was really trying.

5) Conclusion

Australia. You should go there. Melbourne. My god, it rains a lot in the winter. Dress appropriately. The Handels. They are just the best. The worst part about seeing them was being reminded how much we miss them. The brilliant coastal views, polemic murals, creepy cacti, lazy ass koalas, cold pints, heavenly dumplings, and hilariously extra-Australian sports  were really all just excuses to hang out with two people who just **had** to pick up and start their rock star life all over in a freaky new continent.

Jon and Sara Twelve Apostles

{Katy Addendum:  We are seriously looking forward to our next half-way-around-the-world adventure with them. We love you guys!}